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Florence Lake Trailhead
Submitted by Matt Young
August, 2006
What do you get when you combine an eighteen-mile-long one-lane mountain
road, a three-mile trail that climbs two thousand feet, a lifetime's
supply of mosquitoes, and the promise of big brookies?
We reached the
Florence Lake area after about three hours on hwy 168 and the infamous
Kaiser Pass Road and ate lunch at nearby Ward Lake, a pretty little
roadside fore bay containing rainbows and a few browns washed down from
Florence. I threw a few flies but it was noon and nary could a rise be
seen. We arrived at the trailhead about a half hour later and gaped at the
ridge we had to scale. Florence Lake is at 7200 feet, and sits in a valley
of sorts flanked by peaks over 9000 feet on either side. The hike was only
three miles, but it was three miles of relentless climbing (and
subsequently, gasping and wheezing).

Hidden Lake
After three
hours of hiking, stopping, more hiking, and more stopping, we lifted
ourselves over the top and down towards Dutch Lake. It was surrounded by
tall grass and lilies covered the edges and in short looked like perfect
big brook trout water. Then we stepped closer and realized that the lake
was literally swarming with mosquitoes. In the time it took me to
haphazardly spray DEET all over my skin I had sustained enough bites to
kill a large rat or similarly sized household pet and we had only seen a
few small rises. I rigged up and cast around a bit but didn't see anything
and was more focused on clearing the lilies than reaching a likely spot.
We decided to keep going a quarter mile to Hidden Lake hoping that the
more rocky terrain shown on the topo would be less hospitable to
mosquitoes.
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When we
reached the lake it looked like a fisherman's paradise. Perfectly
calm, deep blue water, trout dimpling the surface, and large logs
generously sticking out into the water to provide ample casting
space. The only problem was that the mosquitoes were still out in
force, although drenching my body in repellent seemed to help some.
Without even bothering to take off my pack I stopped to address a
large rise two feet from the bank and was rewarded with an instant
strike. The trout jumped my fly after about ten seconds but it was
long enough to convince us that we had found a place to camp for the
night. After coaxing another much larger and much more fleeting
strike, I abandoned all pretense of cool disinterest and threw off
my backpack to circle the lake. Trout continued to forage near the
banks, sipping terrestrials from the surface and after another hour
of stalking behind trees and tiptoeing down shaky logs my patience
was rewarded when a nice 13-inch 'bow came up and inhaled my
bivisible. |
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That a
lake this small contained fish this large was a pleasant surprise.
The hardest part was finding the fish; it seems that numbers of
trout go down as the average size goes up. After I spotted a cruiser
and placed an ant pattern or black caddis in front of it, the trout
would rise surely with all the trust of an alpine lake fish that
never sees fishing pressure. Once hooked however, the 'bows fought
with vigor and twice my 5x tippet snapped from the pressure. We
wondered where the rainbows came from because the lake was only
supposed to have brook trout and there was no tributary for
spawning. There was a stream flowing out of the lake but the only
water source in seemed to be springs that bubbled up from the
shallow lake bed. We spied some depressions in the muddy lake floor
and surmised that, like brookies, these rainbows had adapted to
spawn in the lake itself. |
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The
following morning yielded four more rainbows ranging from 11-14
inches, some fat, some slender, all beautifully colored and all
wonderful fighters. We left Hidden Lake with reluctance as two spin
fishermen who had camped at Crater Lake the night before told us the
fishing there was lousy: "Twenty years ago," one of them
said, "Crater was hot and Hidden had nothing. Now I'm catching
16-inchers here and finding nothing in Crater." This was
disheartening information, as Crater was the main destination of the
trip. Still, we had to give it a shot so the promise of even larger
rainbows and brookies called us another mile up the slope towards
Crater Lake. |
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A
quarter-mile before reaching the lake we crossed Crater Creek, the
lake's only outlet. It was packed with tiny brook trout and provided
us with a fun fifteen minutes of tossing little insects in the water
before the ones attacking our unprotected skin forced us away from
the water. When we reached the lake it appeared as though the
warning we had received was accurate. Not a rise in sight, no fish
foraging along the banks, and steady winds swept the lake surface
making it seem even deeper and colder. The only positive to the wind
was that it kept the mosquitoes away; otherwise I was cold and the
lack of trout didn't help matters any. Finally after about five
minutes I spotted a small dimple out in the middle of the lake and
we decided to camp there for the night. That evening hosted a black
caddis hatch and we both managed some fish, mostly rainbows in the
6-8" range with two brookies at about 10" each. The next
morning was more of the same; casting to rising trout tricked
several more small 'bows which fought valiantly for their size but
after reading about Crater Lake's great fishery were disappointing
nonetheless.
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That
afternoon we headed back down the ridge, eating lunch at Florence
and then exploring the San Joaquin below the dam. This beautiful
tail water is a slow, wide meadow stream for about seven miles below
the lake and boasts one of the most classic fishing backdrops you're
likely to find. The crystal clear water made the fishing challenging
though and was eerily reminiscent of the infamous meadow section of
Hat Creek. One sloppy cast put down all the fish in that stretch of
the river and after spending ten minutes stalking a nice 13-incher
holding in a channel near the edge, I took one step too far and the
fish darted under the bank. We tried heading upstream after that
where we knew people were catching stockers. A couple of rainbows
were steadily rising and I managed to land one on an emerger and get
a few more bites while moving upstream. We reached the bridge where
the DFG stocks and sure enough trout were everywhere. Strangely
though, none would rise and when I placed a fly directly on top of a
fish it wouldn't even notice. The beauty of hatchery fish, I thought
to myself. Maybe if I had a Powerbait pattern… |
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The trout
weren't numerous but Hidden Lake's rainbows were larger than
anything I've caught in high mountain lakes before. I usually see
one or two large fish in each lake but these lunkers are the
exception, not the rule. To find a fishery that's relatively close
and boasts an average trout size upwards of 12" is a treat in
itself. And while this trip wasn't an exercise in sheer catch
numbers, I discovered enrichment through fishing yet again. One such
highlight was looking out at the water in the morning from our
campsite and watching a pod of small 'bows rising consistently just
out of reach of my normal cast radius. I decided to practice casting
for distance for a bit so I hopped over to a peninsula jutting out
into the water giving me plenty of back cast room and started double
hauling. I didn't seriously think I could get my emerger close to
the pod, but fifteen minutes and three hookups (including one that
wrapped me around an underwater log just before I could land it)
later I had managed to sling my fly line a good twenty feet past any
of my previous attempts and scored at least a tiny feeling of
accomplishment. |
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Yet again I've
been humbled by the sheer majesty of the Sierra Nevada and the brilliant
trout that call it home. And even if I didn't catch the fish I was aiming
for, I still have wondrous images of big brookies dancing in my head to
last me until my next fishing adventure.
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