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Forks of Kern Trek
Kern River Valley
August 25, 2006
Meeting up at Troutfitters, in
Kernville, we couldn't have asked for better weather. A cloudless
Blue Sky and moderate temperature gave me a sense of good things to
come. Sharing idle conversation on the porch, while others
picked up some last minute flies and fire permits, everyone was
eager to go.
Matt, Karen and Reese arrived and
were appointed as lead vehicle for the drive to the trailhead.
Soon we were on our way., as we contained our excitement, knowing it
would be over an hour long drive.
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Cruising up Mtn 99, I and my passengers
were busy pointing out all of our favorite spots along the way. Not
too surprisingly, it seems all of the spots were favorites. Which is
to say; we've all fished the Upper Kern River so much, that nearly its
entire length has produced good fishing, at one time or another. For
me, and I'm sure others as well, seeing the river is like visiting an old
friend. I'm filled with a certain calmness, just driving alongside
the river.
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The scenery and conversation had
managed to make the 1-1/2 hour drive seem like only 30
minutes. The others may have felt differently, but that's how
I was feeling. All the same, we were there and it really
didn't matter how long it took. Everyone set about getting
their packs ready. Strangely, like Lambs to the
slaughter, no one seemed in a hurry. Better put, it was Friday
afternoon and we had a full day Saturday to fish. So,
basically, everyone was relaxed and unhurried.
Matt & Karen, being the only
ones in the group to have been this way before and considering their
precious cargo Reese, were given the lead. The first 1/4 of a
mile consisted of dirt ground to a fine powder by horses and pack
animals. It was hard to keep from kicking the powder up.
Perhaps the most memorable part of
the hike down was Reese. I marveled at the spectacle of her riding
atop of her Dad, as if she where riding an elephant on safari. And
secondly, the fact that we were constantly descending.
Thinking to myself, the easier it is in... the harder it well be
going out. Oh well, nothing you can do about it. So, I'd
just enjoy the hike down and be thankful for that. |
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At the base of the decent, Matt
proceeded to lead us to his Ultra-Secret Honeycomb hideout.
After passing several good camping spots, you couldn't help
wondering why we were still hiking onward. The the sub-trail
appeared to vanish and we were cutting our way through the jungle.,
or so it seemed. It was at that point, that I began to wonder
again. But, on noting Matt's unyielding and all knowing onward
march, I was pretty sure he knew exactly where the hideout was.
And then we stopped at a site with
a fire pit surrounded on two sides with long logs, and another fire
pit built in the form of an outdoor BBQ grill. The group seemed to
pause for a moment to make sure we were actually stopping here. Then
the packs came off and everyone set about locating spots and setting
up their tents. |
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I hadn't noticed that Karen slipped away
until the stillness was shattered with her "Woo Hoo", from
somewhere downstream. Like a starting bell at a horse track, it
reminded us of why we were there... to Fish! And with that, we
'hustled up', got our gear ready and were soon on the water.
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Passing each member of the group,
I continued to venture up river until I found a spot for me.
It's difficult to settle on a spot when the whole river looks so
fishy. And of course, I'm not going to complain about that.
My first catch of the day looked
as though it had come from the San Gabriel East Fork.
Immediately I thought; "Oh, it's going to be like
this...".
I fished the spot a little while
longer with a few missed strikes. It didn't take long for my
hopes of BIG wilds to fade. I eventually decided to explore a
little further up river, in hopes of finding a nice pool.
I came to a section, not the
actual Forks, that contained merging forks. No doubt the
declining flow had created an island section causing the river to
split and then form this little fork. |
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I don't recall how long the line
had been out before the first missed strike. The strike itself
had restored my hopes of bigger wilds than what I had caught so
far. A few seconds later and I was startled by the strongest
strike I've ever felt on the fly. The fish struck so eagerly
that it basically set the hook itself. It was pulling hard
when I notice my rod will bent as far as it can before snapping, so
I quickly opened the drag and let the fish run. And RUN it
did, taking 20-30' of line in less than 5 seconds. At the end
of the run, I tried to haul him in. But the slightest tug and
he was running again. I was having the time of my life.
I'd dreamed of days like this., and until now they had only been
dreams. All total, the fish Ran five times before he'd let me
bring him in. Looking at my reel and seeing the backing begin
to appear, I could only smile. It's about time I spooled out
to the backing.
Now, some (maybe most) people
strip the fish in., but I prefer to keep the line taught and reel
him in. So naturally, it took a little while to get the fish
to me. As he came into view, I started to think that I'd
caught fish his size before. But, never one this strong and
with so much fight to it. I estimated his length between
14-15". |
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I continued to fish the same spot, and
was rewarded with four (5) more fish. Each of them required no less
than four (4) 20-30' runs and ranged in lengths of 14-16".
After the fifth fish, I'd get no more takers. But, by that point, I
couldn't have been more content. In fact, if someone were to say we
had to leave, I do so thinking my cup was full.
One strong characteristic of the fish
were their tails and fins. They were perfect, devoid of tears and
fully formed. No doubt, this enabled them to fight so hard. The
next noticeable characteristic was their coloring. The pictures
taken in the poor lighting don't fully capture the brilliant colors on
these fish. In a word, Spectacular.
Nesting my now thrashed Kern Emerger
with its torn and floppy foam back, I was amazed that my knotted leader
had held together. With that thought in mind, I smiled and headed
back towards camp.
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On my way back to camp, I came
across Antonio. Watching him wading there, I asked how he was
doing. He was all smiles and had been doing as well as
I. Catching yet another one while we yelled back and forth to
each other.
Leaving Antonio to continue my
journey back to camp, I couldn't help feeling that this place was
magical. And I was eager to see/hear how the others had done. |
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Next, I came across Marshal and
Gary. I hung around long enough for them to catch another fish each
for my camera, which didn't take long. And then I was on my
way back to camp again.
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Arriving back at camp, I got some coffee
started. While waiting on that, I talked to Karen and Matt
about the fish I'd caught., expressing my amazement at how Big and Feisty
the fish were. And that I'm pretty sure I topped my personal best on
the fly. Matt seemed relieved, apparently he'd feared we get there
and find no takers. Well, everyone I met on my return to camp had
caught fish... so we couldn't have been happier.
Meanwhile, Dan and Benny returned and
started tossing their lines in the pool next to camp. As the sun
begun to fade; Antonio, Marshal and Gary returned. Watching Dan and
Benny, the risers started to appear. Before long, our little beach
was lined by at least half of the group.
Standing there with Matt & Karen, as
the other fished in the waning light, we couldn't help but notice
Antonio's casts. It's hard to sound corny in describing them.
Powerful and yet graceful near perfect precision. Seemingly
confident, it look as though he could land his fly anywhere he
desired. His mastery of it was impressive. Matt and I
commented that we needed to find out what he was using. To myself I
thought, that wouldn't be enough. Clearly Antonio had mastered his
rod and was in tune with it. This can only come from good technique
and lots of practice. Oh well, some day.
Soon it was too dark to fish, though
jumping fish could still be heard. The group gathered their cooking
equipment and made their dinners. The fire was setup and lit.
And soon we were all feed and gathered around it, sitting on rather
comfortable logs on two sides. Stories of the day and days gone
by.
Members of the group took their leave
and drifted off to bed like leaves falling from a tree in a gentle autumn
breeze. Matt, Karen and I stayed up a little longer., enjoying
conversation at the fire. And then, we too decided to call it
night. Standing there alone, waiting for the embers to fade, I
couldn't help but feel satisfied with how the day had been.
- - -
I awoke the next morning to the sound of
Gary and Marshall getting ready to chase trout. I stuck my head out
of the sleeping bag and saw that it was still pitch dark. Then I
realized I had my beanie pulled down over my head. Ok, so the sun
was up. All the same, I decided to sleep in a little longer.
When I finally did arise, around 8am, I came to realize that the camp was
empty. Everyone, it seemed, was off chasing trout. So I got
started on making coffee and oatmeal, figuring I had all day to chase
trout.
Waiting on the coffee and oatmeal, I
turned on my FRS radio a called out for our expected late arrival
Eric. I was stunned that he answered on the first call. Guess
that means I got out of bed just in time. At that moment, he was
roughly halfway down from the trailhead.
Just as I was finishing breakfast,
Antonio, Dan and Benny returned from trout. Antonio was all abuzz
with his fishing experience that morning. Non-stop action in one
spot without having to run around. You could read the excitement on
his face. I radioed for Eric to see how he was coming along, and
found that he'd bumped into Gary and Marshall next to the trail sign they
had made for him. Before long, Eric appeared from the bush and setup
up his tent.
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I waited for Eric to rig up, so I
could take him to the spot I was at the day before., so that he
might experience what I had. Unfortunately, the fish that were
there had moved on., and the hunt would have to start afresh.
Eric set off trout chasing up river, while I gave the spot a little
more time.
Eventually, it paid off with one
average taker. Guess I'll need to hunt elsewhere... |
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It was then, that Marshall came
bolting through the bushes with his prize in hand., looking for
someone with a camera. The picture, itself, doesn't do it
justice. But, Marshall's fish was pushing 16".
On seeing him, I suggested he put
the fish in the water for little bit. Fearing it would expire
after the foray through the bush and photo-op.
After the fish had a little swim
and bath, a picture was taken. Marshall was afraid the fish
was too weak to be released. And frankly, so was I.
The fish being such a perfect
specimen, I was prepared do whatever it took to revive it.
Rocking the fish back and forth, in the water, for about minute...
it finally gave a strong flap of it's tail. A little more
rocking and it was ready to swim off. I reached for it, as it
slowly swam away, and it darted off and disappeared into the
darkness of the deep pool.
Pleased, Marshall went back to his
spot and I thought I'd check things out further up stream. |
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Making my way across the Little
Kern and up river, I soon found myself seemingly surrounded by fresh
bear scat (droppings) and clearly visible tracks.
Suddenly, I had this feeling of
being watch., and that maybe it wasn't such a good idea to out there
alone.
In my true to form Alfred E.
Newman "What, me worry?" attitude, I shrugged it off and
continued my journey onward. |
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It seemed like I had hiked a few
miles. But, according to the map, I'd only gone just over a
mile away from camp. And there it was, the
pool of my dreams. Actually, there were two pools., one on
each side of the outcropping of rock I was standing on.
Never did water look so fishy and
produce no strikes. Apparently, the fish were off hiding in
the shade on the opposite bank. And sadly, well beyond my
casting skills.
Knowing that Matt, Karen &
Reese would leave just after noon, I decided to go no further and
return to camp and bid them farewell.
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Taking one last look at this vast
pool upstream, taking in the sight, sounds and smells. I felt
the sense of having been there before. Well, not there, but
places like it. And, as always, the memories came floating
back into view.
Memories of Dad and I from long
ago., and more recently my fishing trips with Daniel and the Nephews
at spots like this. Maybe, not catching fish here was God's
way of giving me the opportunity to take it all in... and enjoy the
moment that much more. It's never just about the fish. |
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I arrived back at camp, to find
Matt & Karen packing up and preparing Reese for the hike
out. I couldn't help but feel somewhat concerned about the
prospect of Matt packing Reese out of the gorge. Remember, the
easier it is down, the harder it is up. But then, remembering
Matt's level of conditioning while watching Karen and Reese do their
little dance to a children's' song., I had a sense they'd fair well.
Soon the others gathered to give
Matt, Karen and Reese a proper send off. Loaded up, we checked
their straps and away they went. |
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Naturally, after they departed, we
were back to fishing some more. And since I had been down
river, I figured I'd venture up river. Gary had already
explored up river and said there were some nice pools. Just a
little hard to get to.
Once you get over and/or around
the first sandstone wall, you find yourself in a rather large lagoon
with a sandy beach. I couldn't help think it was a good place
to swim and play in the water. One thing is for sure, the fish
were nowhere to be found. Although I did manage to scare a few of
them when I waded out onto the sand bar.
And so, after testing this spot.,
I was off up river to the next one... |
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It was hard to fly fish from the
rocks and get a good angle on this fishy spot... so I moved on to
the next one...
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... another scary climb over the
next wall of steep rock and I came across this interesting beach
with a deep run on the opposite site of the river.
Fishy as it may appear, I didn't
get a single strike. It must have been the 'High Noon' thing
when the fish are taking a nap. For surely, I had been fishing
in some really good looking water since I left camp.
Considering the journey a scenic
tour, I decided to head back to camp. Getting back over the
three rock walls proved just as hard going back as they did coming
from camp. I had to wonder if it had all been
worth the effort. |
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Arriving back at camp again, I
discovered that Eric and Benny had journeyed over the first wall of rock
behind me. Turning back, Benny discovered just how hard it is to fly
when you don't have wings and gravity works against you. From the
description of his fall, it's luck he didn't break his back. And
then Gary related that when he went over that same wall, he too had a
mishap that nearly drove his forceps into his chest. And he had the
entry wound to prove it. If anything, care must be taken when venturing
down river and into the gorge.
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Although I normally like to hit
the trail early, on the day of departure, we decided to fish for 1/2
of the day since Eric had arrived late. We hiked down to the
Forks, drop our packs and rig up rods. Preferring to save my
energy for the hike out, I opted to just take pictures.
Gary, Eric and Antonio fished a
stretch of river, with Eric and Antonio on the opposite bank.
Antonio and Eric were getting plenty of hits where they were.
Soon Gary was getting some hits
too., and managed to land at least one that I recall.
Later, Antonio worked his way down
river a bit and found a productive spot. Within two minutes
he'd hooked up at least four fish... all LDRs (Long Distance
Releases). |
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With the Sun high overhead and the
temperature reaching its highest point for the day, it was time to hit the
trail. We loaded up with our water bottles filled to the brim and
away we went. The 1/4 section of the trail wasn't bad., a long
leisurely ascending stretch to give us the misgiving that it would be a
cake-walk. Nearing the end of that section, our fears were realized
as the trail pitch upward and are legs began to complain.
In this heat, it didn't take long for us
get exhausted. Eventually, we devised a technique wrought from
desperation, whereby we'd hike from shady spot to shady spot. With
each shady spot looking like an ideal spot for a break., even though it
might only be 20-30 paces from the last one.
Chugging along, there was never a doubt
that we'd make it. I just knew we'd have to work for it this
time. Originally, we'd taken off running and now had found a pace
just below the leg muscle burning threshold. Or, put a different
way, we were moving pretty slow. Of the worst time of day to be on
that trail climbing up, we managed to pick it. We sweated water out
nearly as fast as we took it in. I rarely drink two quarts of water
on a hike., half way up (only 1 mile) and I'd already drank a quart.
I started wondering if I had enough water.
Two thirds of the way and I started
eyeing the Pinnacles. As I recall from our descent, at the top the
Pinnacles appeared as single knob. So, it over until we can no
longer see two distinct Pinnacles., but rather a knob with one Pinnacle in
front of the other. When we neared that point, I felt it was safe to
disclose that observation to the others. To have done so beforehand
would have disheartened their resolve, watching the seemingly never
changing distinct Pinnacles and thinking we'd never get to the top.
Passed by a couple on horses, going in
the opposite direction, I mentally counted the cash I had to negotiate a
fare... when the riders exclaimed that we were almost there. Sure
enough, 30-40' more of gain and we were on a level plane with the
parking area and vehicles.
I can't tell you what a relief it was to
finally reach the trailhead., and being greeted by Benny bearing bottles
of water for all. Once again I was reminded of how well the GST
group works together. After regaining our strength, we regroup at
McNalleys for Burgers before the long drives home.
Don't miss these reports and pictures
posted by other members of the group: Antonio's
Report Gary's
Report Matt's
Report
We'll be back
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