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Forks of Kern Trek
Kern River Valley

August 25, 2006

Meeting up at Troutfitters, in Kernville, we couldn't have asked for better weather. A cloudless Blue Sky and moderate temperature gave me a sense of good things to come.  Sharing idle conversation on the porch, while others picked up some last minute flies and fire permits, everyone was eager to go.

Matt, Karen and Reese arrived and were appointed as lead vehicle for the drive to the trailhead.  Soon we were on our way., as we contained our excitement, knowing it would be over an hour long drive.

 


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Cruising up Mtn 99, I and my passengers were busy pointing out all of our favorite spots along the way.  Not too surprisingly, it seems all of the spots were favorites.  Which is to say; we've all fished the Upper Kern River so much, that nearly its entire length has produced good fishing, at one time or another.  For me, and I'm sure others as well, seeing the river is like visiting an old friend.  I'm filled with a certain calmness, just driving alongside the river.

The scenery and conversation had managed to make the 1-1/2 hour drive seem like only 30 minutes.  The others may have felt differently, but that's how I was feeling.  All the same, we were there and it really didn't matter how long it took.  Everyone set about getting their packs ready.  Strangely,  like Lambs to the slaughter, no one seemed in a hurry.  Better put, it was Friday afternoon and we had a full day Saturday to fish.  So, basically, everyone was relaxed and unhurried.

Matt & Karen, being the only ones in the group to have been this way before and considering their precious cargo Reese, were given the lead.  The first 1/4 of a mile consisted of dirt ground to a fine powder by horses and pack animals. It was hard to keep from kicking the powder up.

Perhaps the most memorable part of the hike down was Reese. I marveled at the spectacle of her riding atop of her Dad, as if she where riding an elephant on safari. And secondly, the fact that we were constantly descending.  Thinking to myself, the easier it is in... the harder it well be going out.  Oh well, nothing you can do about it.  So, I'd just enjoy the hike down and be thankful for that.

At the base of the decent, Matt proceeded to lead us to his Ultra-Secret Honeycomb hideout.  After passing several good camping spots, you couldn't help wondering why we were still hiking onward.  The the sub-trail appeared to vanish and we were cutting our way through the jungle., or so it seemed.  It was at that point, that I began to wonder again.  But, on noting Matt's unyielding and all knowing onward march, I was pretty sure he knew exactly where the hideout was.

And then we stopped at a site with a fire pit surrounded on two sides with long logs, and another fire pit built in the form of an outdoor BBQ grill. The group seemed to pause for a moment to make sure we were actually stopping here. Then the packs came off and everyone set about locating spots and setting up their tents.

I hadn't noticed that Karen slipped away until the stillness was shattered with her "Woo Hoo", from somewhere downstream.  Like a starting bell at a horse track, it reminded us of why we were there... to Fish!  And with that, we 'hustled up', got our gear ready and were soon on the water.

Passing each member of the group, I continued to venture up river until I found a spot for me.  It's difficult to settle on a spot when the whole river looks so fishy.  And of course, I'm not going to complain about that.

My first catch of the day looked as though it had come from the San Gabriel East Fork.  Immediately I thought; "Oh, it's going to be like this...".

I fished the spot a little while longer with a few missed strikes.  It didn't take long for my hopes of BIG wilds to fade.  I eventually decided to explore a little further up river, in hopes of finding a nice pool.

I came to a section, not the actual Forks, that contained merging forks.  No doubt the declining flow had created an island section causing the river to split and then form this little fork.

I don't recall how long the line had been out before the first missed strike.  The strike itself had restored my hopes of bigger wilds than what I had caught so far.  A few seconds later and I was startled by the strongest strike I've ever felt on the fly.  The fish struck so eagerly that it basically set the hook itself.  It was pulling hard when I notice my rod will bent as far as it can before snapping, so I quickly opened the drag and let the fish run.  And RUN it did, taking 20-30' of line in less than 5 seconds.  At the end of the run, I tried to haul him in.  But the slightest tug and he was running again.  I was having the time of my life.  I'd dreamed of days like this., and until now they had only been dreams.  All total, the fish Ran five times before he'd let me bring him in.  Looking at my reel and seeing the backing begin to appear, I could only smile.  It's about time I spooled out to the backing.

Now, some (maybe most) people strip the fish in., but I prefer to keep the line taught and reel him in.  So naturally, it took a little while to get the fish to me.  As he came into view, I started to think that I'd caught fish his size before.  But, never one this strong and with so much fight to it.  I estimated his length between 14-15".

I continued to fish the same spot, and was rewarded with four (5) more fish.  Each of them required no less than four (4) 20-30' runs and ranged in lengths of 14-16".  After the fifth fish, I'd get no more takers.  But, by that point, I couldn't have been more content.  In fact, if someone were to say we had to leave, I do so thinking my cup was full.


One strong characteristic of the fish were their tails and fins.  They were perfect, devoid of tears and fully formed.  No doubt, this enabled them to fight so hard. The next noticeable characteristic was their coloring.  The pictures taken in the poor lighting don't fully capture the brilliant colors on these fish.  In a word, Spectacular.

Nesting my now thrashed Kern Emerger with its torn and floppy foam back, I was amazed that my knotted leader had held together.  With that thought in mind, I smiled and headed back towards camp.

On my way back to camp, I came across Antonio.  Watching him wading there, I asked how he was doing.  He was all smiles and had been doing as well as I.  Catching yet another one while we yelled back and forth to each other.

Leaving Antonio to continue my journey back to camp, I couldn't help feeling that this place was magical.  And I was eager to see/hear how the others had done.

Next, I came across Marshal and Gary. I hung around long enough for them to catch another fish each for my camera, which didn't take long.  And then I was on my way back to camp again.

Arriving back at camp, I got some coffee started.   While waiting on that, I talked to Karen and Matt about the fish I'd caught., expressing my amazement at how Big and Feisty the fish were.  And that I'm pretty sure I topped my personal best on the fly.  Matt seemed relieved, apparently he'd feared we get there and find no takers.  Well, everyone I met on my return to camp had caught fish... so we couldn't have been happier.

Meanwhile, Dan and Benny returned and started tossing their lines in the pool next to camp.  As the sun begun to fade; Antonio, Marshal and Gary returned.  Watching Dan and Benny, the risers started to appear.  Before long, our little beach was lined by at least half of the group.

Standing there with Matt & Karen, as the other fished in the waning light, we couldn't help but notice Antonio's casts.  It's hard to sound corny in describing them.  Powerful and yet graceful near perfect precision.  Seemingly confident, it look as though he could land his fly anywhere he desired.  His mastery of it was impressive.  Matt and I commented that we needed to find out what he was using.  To myself I thought, that wouldn't be enough.  Clearly Antonio had mastered his rod and was in tune with it.  This can only come from good technique and lots of practice.  Oh well, some day.

Soon it was too dark to fish, though jumping fish could still be heard.  The group gathered their cooking equipment and made their dinners.  The fire was setup and lit.  And soon we were all feed and gathered around it, sitting on rather comfortable logs on two sides.  Stories of the day and days gone by. 

Members of the group took their leave and drifted off to bed like leaves falling from a tree in a gentle autumn breeze.  Matt, Karen and I stayed up a little longer., enjoying conversation at the fire.  And then, we too decided to call it night.  Standing there alone, waiting for the embers to fade, I couldn't help but feel satisfied with how the day had been.

- - -

I awoke the next morning to the sound of Gary and Marshall getting ready to chase trout.  I stuck my head out of the sleeping bag and saw that it was still pitch dark.  Then I realized I had my beanie pulled down over my head.  Ok, so the sun was up.  All the same, I decided to sleep in a little longer.  When I finally did arise, around 8am, I came to realize that the camp was empty.  Everyone, it seemed, was off chasing trout.  So I got started on making coffee and oatmeal, figuring I had all day to chase trout.

Waiting on the coffee and oatmeal, I turned on my FRS radio a called out for our expected late arrival Eric.  I was stunned that he answered on the first call.  Guess that means I got out of bed just in time.  At that moment, he was roughly halfway down from the trailhead.

Just as I was finishing breakfast, Antonio, Dan and Benny returned from trout.  Antonio was all abuzz with his fishing experience that morning.  Non-stop action in one spot without having to run around.  You could read the excitement on his face.  I radioed for Eric to see how he was coming along, and found that he'd bumped into Gary and Marshall next to the trail sign they had made for him.  Before long, Eric appeared from the bush and setup up his tent.

I waited for Eric to rig up, so I could take him to the spot I was at the day before., so that he might experience what I had.  Unfortunately, the fish that were there had moved on., and the hunt would have to start afresh.  Eric set off trout chasing up river, while I gave the spot a little more time. 

Eventually, it paid off with one average taker.  Guess I'll need to hunt elsewhere...

It was then, that Marshall came bolting through the bushes with his prize in hand., looking for someone with a camera.  The picture, itself, doesn't do it justice.  But, Marshall's fish was pushing 16". 

On seeing him, I suggested he put the fish in the water for little bit.  Fearing it would expire after the foray through the bush and photo-op.

After the fish had a little swim and bath, a picture was taken.  Marshall was afraid the fish was too weak to be released.  And frankly, so was I. 

The fish being such a perfect specimen, I was prepared do whatever it took to revive it.  Rocking the fish back and forth, in the water, for about minute... it finally gave a strong flap of it's tail.  A little more rocking and it was ready to swim off.  I reached for it, as it slowly swam away, and it darted off and disappeared into the darkness of the deep pool.

Pleased, Marshall went back to his spot and I thought I'd check things out further up stream.

Making my way across the Little Kern and up river, I soon found myself seemingly surrounded by fresh bear scat (droppings) and clearly visible tracks.

Suddenly, I had this feeling of being watch., and that maybe it wasn't such a good idea to out there alone.

In my true to form Alfred E. Newman "What, me worry?" attitude, I shrugged it off and continued my journey onward.

It seemed like I had hiked a few miles.  But, according to the map, I'd only gone just over a mile away from camp. And there it was, the pool of my dreams.  Actually, there were two pools., one on each side of the outcropping of rock I was standing on.

Never did water look so fishy and produce no strikes.  Apparently, the fish were off hiding in the shade on the opposite bank.  And sadly, well beyond my casting skills.

Knowing that Matt, Karen & Reese would leave just after noon, I decided to go no further and return to camp and bid them farewell.

 

Taking one last look at this vast pool upstream, taking in the sight, sounds and smells.  I felt the sense of having been there before.  Well, not there, but places like it.  And, as always, the memories came floating back into view. 

Memories of Dad and I from long ago., and more recently my fishing trips with Daniel and the Nephews at spots like this.  Maybe, not catching fish here was God's way of giving me the opportunity to take it all in... and enjoy the moment that much more.  It's never just about the fish.

I arrived back at camp, to find Matt & Karen packing up and preparing Reese for the hike out.  I couldn't help but feel somewhat concerned about the prospect of Matt packing Reese out of the gorge.  Remember, the easier it is down, the harder it is up.  But then, remembering Matt's level of conditioning while watching Karen and Reese do their little dance to a children's' song., I had a sense they'd fair well.

Soon the others gathered to give Matt, Karen and Reese a proper send off.  Loaded up, we checked their straps and away they went.

Naturally, after they departed, we were back to fishing some more.  And since I had been down river, I figured I'd venture up river.  Gary had already explored up river and said there were some nice pools.  Just a little hard to get to.

Once you get over and/or around the first sandstone wall, you find yourself in a rather large lagoon with a sandy beach.  I couldn't help think it was a good place to swim and play in the water.  One thing is for sure, the fish were nowhere to be found. Although I did manage to scare a few of them when I waded out onto the sand bar.

And so, after testing this spot., I was off up river to the next one...

It was hard to fly fish from the rocks and get a good angle on this fishy spot... so I moved on to the next one...

... another scary climb over the next wall of steep rock and I came across this interesting beach with a deep run on the opposite site of the river.

Fishy as it may appear, I didn't get a single strike.  It must have been the 'High Noon' thing when the fish are taking a nap.  For surely, I had been fishing in some really good looking water since I left camp.

Considering the journey a scenic tour, I decided to head back to camp.  Getting back over the three rock walls proved just as hard going back as they did coming from camp. I had to wonder if it had all been worth the effort.

Arriving back at camp again, I discovered that Eric and Benny had journeyed over the first wall of rock behind me.  Turning back, Benny discovered just how hard it is to fly when you don't have wings and gravity works against you. From the description of his fall, it's luck he didn't break his back.  And then Gary related that when he went over that same wall, he too had a mishap that nearly drove his forceps into his chest.  And he had the entry wound to prove it. If anything, care must be taken when venturing down river and into the gorge.

- - - 

Although I normally like to hit the trail early, on the day of departure, we decided to fish for 1/2 of the day since Eric had arrived late.  We hiked down to the Forks, drop our packs and rig up rods.  Preferring to save my energy for the hike out, I opted to just take pictures.

Gary, Eric and Antonio fished a stretch of river, with Eric and Antonio on the opposite bank.  Antonio and Eric were getting plenty of hits where they were.

Soon Gary was getting some hits too., and managed to land at least one that I recall.

Later, Antonio worked his way down river a bit and found a productive spot.  Within two minutes he'd hooked up at least four fish... all LDRs (Long Distance Releases).

With the Sun high overhead and the temperature reaching its highest point for the day, it was time to hit the trail.  We loaded up with our water bottles filled to the brim and away we went.  The 1/4 section of the trail wasn't bad., a long leisurely ascending stretch to give us the misgiving that it would be a cake-walk.  Nearing the end of that section, our fears were realized as the trail pitch upward and are legs began to complain.

In this heat, it didn't take long for us get exhausted.  Eventually, we devised a technique wrought from desperation, whereby we'd hike from shady spot to shady spot.  With each shady spot looking like an ideal spot for a break., even though it might only be 20-30 paces from the last one.

Chugging along, there was never a doubt that we'd make it.  I just knew we'd have to work for it this time.  Originally, we'd taken off running and now had found a pace just below the leg muscle burning threshold.  Or, put a different way, we were moving pretty slow.  Of the worst time of day to be on that trail climbing up, we managed to pick it.  We sweated water out nearly as fast as we took it in.  I rarely drink two quarts of water on a hike., half way up (only 1 mile) and I'd already drank a quart.  I started wondering if I had enough water.

Two thirds of the way and I started eyeing the Pinnacles.  As I recall from our descent, at the top the Pinnacles appeared as single knob.  So, it over until we can no longer see two distinct Pinnacles., but rather a knob with one Pinnacle in front of the other.  When we neared that point, I felt it was safe to disclose that observation to the others.  To have done so beforehand would have disheartened their resolve, watching the seemingly never changing distinct Pinnacles and thinking we'd never get to the top.

Passed by a couple on horses, going in the opposite direction, I mentally counted the cash I had to negotiate a fare... when the riders exclaimed that we were almost there.  Sure enough,  30-40' more of gain and we were on a level plane with the parking area and vehicles.

I can't tell you what a relief it was to finally reach the trailhead., and being greeted by Benny bearing bottles of water for all.  Once again I was reminded of how well the GST group works together.  After regaining our strength, we regroup at McNalleys for Burgers before the long drives home.

Don't miss these reports and pictures posted by other members of the group:  Antonio's Report   Gary's Report   Matt's Report

We'll be back ...

 

 

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