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2006 GST Onion Valley Trek
Independence CA
July, 2006
We'll call this
the Onion Valley Trek, because that's where the hiking begins. Onion
Valley is located West by South-West of Independence, CA., at the end of
Onion Valley Road.
The Journey
itself started somewhere in South-East Los Angeles. My nephew (Vance) and
I awoke at 4am somewhat ready to depart at 5am. We were soon joined
by Mike around 4:30am. By 5am, the three of us were on our way to
pickup Eric., in route to meet Gary & Marshal in Lancaster. Long
story short, we picked up Eric and continued to Lancaster... and there
joined Gary and Marshal for the two vehicle convoy to Onion Valley
Campground.
During the trip
to the Campground we entertained ourselves with discussions about who got
the least amount of sleep the night before. Mike, for one, hadn't
slept at all. I smile to myself, thinking of when I couldn't sleep
the night before Christmas, before Shipping Out overseas and nights before
Flight Evaluations. Vance, having arrived at my place late, didn't
hit the sheets until well past midnight. Nor did I, for that
matter. In spite of our lack of sleep, we were firing on all pistons
... eager for what lay ahead.
Arriving at the
campground, sometime before noon, we unloaded the trucks and slowly
settled in. We were in no particular hurry, the remainder of this
Friday would be devoted towards relaxation... with the hike into the John
Muir Wilderness Saturday morning.
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After
unloading, my nephew took the opportunity to cozy up to a boulder
and take a nap. Everyone marveled., but I just smiled... he's
done this since he was a little one. With the smile came both
sadness and pride. Sadness at the loss of the little dude and
Pride in the young man that had become of him.
Standing
around and shooting the breeze, we were met with a gust of wind from
the towering mountains. Instinctively, I think we all knew or feared
what that meant... RAIN !
It
started light enough, but before long it was really starting to
pour. We hurried to get the tents up, before it became too
wet.
After the
tents were setup, we gather gear and people beneath a tree and
wondered when and if the rain would stop. The High Sierra has
its own weather., so it's anybody's guess. I was preparing
myself mentally for a rain-filled weekend., and thinking 'Oh, what
the heck... Thunder, Lightening and Rain are all just part of the
adventure.'. |
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After an hour, or so, the rain
gave way to drizzle. And, the sun poked through the overcast
skies from time to time. We inspected our tents and found that
they had passed their test. Wet on the outside and dry within.
Soon we
received word that a small plane had crashed, about a mile
down the road. So a few of us jumped in the truck, with
cameras in hand, to check it out. The female pilot had been
fortunate, and walked away from it with little more than a forehead
scratch/cut.
On our
arrival back at the camp site, we went to work on getting the fire
started. The damp logs insured that we wouldn't be winning any
merit badges for our fire starting skills. After an hour of
fussing with it, the fire started to roar. Well, enough to
make a bed of coals for our steaks anyway. |

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With the smell of roasting meat
intermingled with the sweet scent that comes from a recent downpour,
we were cheerful and optimistic. Now and again, a light drizzle
would fall briefly. Other than that, we couldn't have asked
for better conditions. More so when you consider the heat-wave
of the past couple weeks. Cool breezes and light rains seemed
like a 'Plus'.
After
dinner, we cleaned up and relaxed around what was left of the
fire. A good meal in our bellies and all was well with the
world. At that point, We could have gone home and felt as
though we'd missed nothing.
I focused
my attention on the comfort of the moment and tried not to dwell on
the morrow. Knowing the hike up to the Alpine Lakes could be a
taste of hell., I'd just leave that concern for the morning.
Meanwhile,
Mike and Eric demonstrated their fly tying skills. Before
long, we were all heading for our beds. By 8pm, everyone was either
sleeping are getting close to it. |
Saturday
morning my alarm sounded at 4am. It was cool and dark outside., so I
hit the snooze and waited till 4:30am to great the day. As I exited
the tent and stumbled around to make the morning brew, I noticed several
groups of head-lamped hikers making their way up the trail.
"Good for them", I thought. I gauged the weather and
decided the others could sleep in a little longer.
Now, normally,
I'm joined by other early risers eager to get started. So I was a
little concerned when none arose., fearing it might be a sign of less than
optimal zeal. Oh well, solitude is a good thing in the wee hours.
Nearing 6am,
with the sun starting to rise in the valley to the east, I set out to wake
the troops. Most, if not all, were awake and just waiting for
someone to give them just cause to leave the warmth of their sacks.
A period of
disorganization followed breakfast, whereby everyone stumbled in circles
slowly getting their tents and gear repacked. Not to be alarmed,
this is quite normal. Somewhere between 7-8am, we had everyone
assembled and ready at the Trail Head. Now for the real fun.
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After a brief journey beyond and
above the Trail Head, we stopped for a Group Photo Op (L-R Gary,
Marshal, Eric, Mike and Vance). It's always best to take this
picture more sooner than later. When everyone is still in good
spirits. Not having been this way before, who knows what
miseries (if any) lay ahead.
We did
know that the elevation gain would be constant, until we reached
Little Pothole Lake. And though my nephew grew impatient with
the pace, I made certain we took it slow and easy. We'll have
the entire day tomorrow to fish., so today we'll take our time
getting there.
Ok, so we
were passed by young and older groups alike. Not because we were
tired... but because we/I set the pace at a snails' pace. I
was going to say Granny Pace., but heck, we were being passed by
Grannies every 15 minutes.
Switchbacks
have a way of driving you nuts. You get the feeling that
you're not getting anywhere. Just remember, with each switch
you put 20 or more feet of elevation gain behind you. And
that's progress too. |

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I'm a firm believer that one
should take every opportunity to take a break on the trail.
And the Wilderness Boundary Sign is no exception.
On
viewing this picture (L-R Vance, Mike, Marshal, Ken (Me) and Eric),
someone commented as to why everyone was leaning. I can't
speak for the others, I was merely leaning on the sign.
Everyone else just seemed to follow suit. Hey, even the sign
is leaning a bit.
As we
continued onward, the sun grew a bit hotter... yet the cool updrafts
continued and made the hike enjoyable.
Some had
started out wearing long zippered pants. Needless to say, the
lower leg sections were zippered off before long. Only in
freezing temps do I start out in long pants... knowing I'll shed
them off at the first rest/break. |
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Soon we were growing desperate to
see Little Pothole. Just then we were overtaken by a group of
youngsters (college folks). Apparently, a cross country team
in a hurry to cover 12 miles. I was content to cover our 2-3
miles, thank you. Their 'Tail-End Charlie' was a Gal dressed
in red shorts. Like a Red Flag waved at a bull, I felt a sense
of renewed vigor., and off we went. In an attempt to keep the
little red motivational tool in view, our paced was a bit
quickened., until someone had the gall to yell "Hold
up!". And, as with any other Flight of Fancy., the
motivational tool and my vigor promptly vanished.
Continuing,
I couldn't help growing impatient for any sign of Little Pothole ...
and then it appeared. I'm not entirely sure, but I think I
heard angels sing when I sighted this all important bench
mark. This signaled that most of the climbing and trail was
now behind us.
The
scenery throughout the trek, thus far, was fantastic. The
scenery at Little Pothole would transcend a bit further beyond what
we've seen so far. The picture here with
Mike and Gary will give you a pretty good idea of what I'm talking
about.
A peaked
range in the background, with this tree covered granite lesser ridge
with a waterfall flowing into Little Pothole. A spectacular
sight for sure. It's at this point, you're
reassured that you're heading in the right direction., and that the
best is yet to come.
Little
Pothole gave us cause to take a longer break. And for some, to
toss their packs for a little while.
Being
Trout-Chasers, there was some talk about what fish (if any) would be
in Little Pothole. But any notion of testing it would just
have to wait for another visit. We had better digs in mind,
and it was time to get going. |

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As we
continued, the joy of seeing Little Pothole faded., as we found ourselves
navigating a granite quarry of sorts and more switchbacks. And again
my mind was focused on 'when' we would get to the next bench mark ...
Gilbert Lake.
We continued to
climb, hoping to see Gilbert at every bend and step up. Only to be
confronted with yet another ridge to climb or go around.
And just when
you start to lose hope, the trail dips downward and you see water through
the trees ahead. At last, Gilbert Lake.
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We quickly start calculating the
number of fish, the width and length of the lake. We were
fortunate to arrive when the trout were rising all over the
lake. Nothing gets a Trout-Chaser's blood flowing more than a
sight like this. Unfortunately, this was merely a bench mark
along the way. Flower, our ultimate destination and camping
spot, should be just up ahead.
Hiking
towards the West end of Gilbert, Gary finds a vista to give us a
clear view and better understanding of the layout of Gilbert.
Yep, we'll come back and visit her tomorrow.
At this
point, we're all excited. We know Gilbert will give us plenty
of amusement. Just in case, Flower does not.
Now eager
to toss off our packs and setup camp, to say nothing of fishing, we
stomp more meaningfully along the remaining trail to Flower.
Smiles? At this point, We had Smiles for Miles. |
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Soon we were at Flower Lake,
scouting around for a suitable camp site. After hopping from
one to another, we settled on a perfect spot. Sheltered from
winds by a boulder, two large adjoining logs to serve as benches and
windbreaks for the stoves. And the lake just a 100' away. Or
at least, seemingly a 100' away ... might have been less. We
couldn't have asked for more.
At some
point, a FS person would pay our site a visit. Make a brief
inspection of it and then share his knowledge of the area.
Throughout
our stay, I would comment on several occasions about how much I
liked the site. As sites go, they don't get much better than
this. On a 10 point scale, I'd give it an easy 9.
We
assembled our tents and arranged our gear. Then we put our
rods together and made our way to the lake. |

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Perhaps it was
the pace, but the hike up didn't leave me feeling spent. I seemed to
have as much energy as when we started. It took about 2-1/2 hours
and put us at Flower before noon. Setting up camp would leave us
plenty of time to chase trout before dinner around 6pm. Being
summer, the sun doesn't actually set until between 8:30 to 9pm.
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Eric would be the first one on the
water. He pitched his tent away from the main-body and
surreptitiously made his way to the inlet. I thought he was still at
camp, until we got to the water and saw him beating the inlet with a
fly.
Gary
promptly found a little clearing to cast from., while I waded out on
what appeared to be a shelf. Shallow yes, but rigid no.
I sank 6 or more inches into the ooze. Which was fine, I've
sunk deeper.
The fish
were easily spooked and seemed well accustomed to two legged
creatures bearing hooks. Still, it wouldn't take long before
we were giving a few of the little guys a ride on our flies.
Like
jockeys in a horse race, we clambered around the lake until we had a
spot that we liked. Fish were everywhere. Spooked yes,
but they were there. |
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One lake, 2 catching some Z's, 4
anglers and 3 nudists ... it doesn't get much better than this
Although
a bit little, in the 8" range, they were aggressive and fun to
catch. Basically, you could catch fish just about
anywhere. Convenience and the ability to keep dry being the
only differences between spots.
Occasionally,
we'd spy a larger trout sitting on the bottom or slowly passing
by. They never seemed too interested in what I had to offer.
After
circumnavigating the lake once, I was happy to have C&R'd
9 Brookies. And I was ready to return to the camp site and
relax. My head was already telling me that I had neglected to
put on sunscreen.
During
the afternoon we had crisscrossed each others paths several times,
in our quest for the fish. It was as if the fish would quickly
figure out what you were up to., and the bite (what little there
was) was over. |

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Gary at one point seemed to find
the perfect spot, chosen fly and fish. It seemed like he could
catch fish there endlessly. It was good to see this kind of
action, even though I was merely an onlooker. I remembered
when Gary and I were catching trees and bushes... so watching him in
his newfound fishing Zen was oddly satisfying.
Honestly, I had grown tired of
fishing and was more than happy to kick back and watch someone
else. More so, since Gary was both in the Zone and the
Zen. I pulled down the brim of my hat, in hopes not getting
further cooked by the sun, and watched.
On my return to camp, I couldn't
resist giving the creek a try. Something about fishy water,
just compels me to. I drifted a Prince Nymph, letting it flow
under some brush... and C&R'd three more Brookies in the
8-9" range. All from the same spot. |

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The next morning we were greeted
with risers and several hatches in the process. And for that
reason, breakfast would be postponed until later.
Again, Eric would be on the water
first. With everyone else soon to follow.
It was truly a madhouse of
hatches. Just about anywhere seemed good.
I opted for a rock on the opposite
side of the lake., which afforded me a few not-so-great telephoto
shots of the others (L-R Marshal, Gary & Eric). |

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In this picture of Gary and
Marshal, I felt like I was watching kids at an Easter Egg Hunt.
The water and winds were calm,
hatches were hatching and fish were rising. The only thing
more we could have asked for were bigger fish.
All the while, I day dreamed of
cruising the lake in a Float Tube. That just had to be the
Cats' Meow.
Knowing what I know now, I think I
could have tortured myself a bit and packed in a tube. I had
pack one further and just as high. Though, I nearly killed myself in
the process. Well, not actually, but there were times on the
hike out that I wished I were dead. |
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The picture to the right was taken
by Gary from across the lake. He wanted to capture the risers,
hatch and many fish. You'll need to click the picture for the
larger version of it, then you should be able to make out the
risers, hatch and fish (sausage shaped shadows beneath the surface).
Kinda makes your skin tickle,
doesn't it?
Oh, by the way, that clown on the
other side is me. I caught 10 that morning., and that was
before I improved my casting skills. Otherwise it might have
been a 20 fish morning. And by morning, I'm talking about less
than two hours. |

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After breakfast the group headed
on over to Gilbert Lake. It was there they managed to land a
couple larger fish. But I doubt the larger fish are limited to
Gilbert, it just happened that way then.
Vance at Gilbert (pictured left)
fishing in the rain, while Uncle Ken takes cover in the trees.
At times it was pouring, but mostly just a sprinkling of BIG drops.
Meanwhile, Gary was in another Zen
near the inlet., while the others were chasing trout at the other
end. At one point I watched Gary make a perfect cast.
Just as the fly kissed the water, it was taken by leaping Brook
trout. It was an amazing sight and I couldn't contain
myself. I may have even embarrassed Gary with my High School
Football sideline enthusiasm, cheering him on. What can I
say? That was a spectacular sight. How I wished I'd had
a movie camera trained on that cast & take. Sweet.
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Gilbert was deeper, wider and
longer... or so it seemed. Another PERFECT candidate for a GST
Float Tube Flotilla.
Though deeper and wider, Gilbert
didn't seem to come close the availability of camping sites.
But than again, we didn't spend much time looking for such.
For information, discussion and
pictures regarding this trek, visit the Onion
Valley Trip Report Topic in the
Forums. There you'll find a lot more pictures from Gary &
Mike. Mike was out of my camera shot for most of the weekend,
and perhaps that's because he was out taking some pictures of his
own. Be sure to visit the above link, you won't want to the
miss out on seeing those photos. |

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Final
Thoughts...
Mosquitoes -
Both afternoons/nights at Flower Lake we were set upon by
mosquitoes. You don't always realize you're being eaten, until the
day after. Or, in my case, until the day after I returned
home. DEET, and plenty of it, use it. Better yet, be
prepared to dress in long sleeves and long pants before dusk. And mist
those with DEET as well. We were getting bit through our thinner
clothes. Upon my return, I spent several days feeling blah., with
what I believe was a mild case of West Nile Virus.
The Lakes
above Onion Valley are teaming with smaller 8" Brookies and a few
Browns. However, the ideal Lakes of Bench, Matlock and Slim are in
the process of having their trout populations removed... to give the
already vibrant colony of MYLFs (Mtn Yellow Legged Frogs) there an even
better chance at survival. And that's all I'm going to say about
that.
The hike to
Flower wasn't bad, considering we were carrying overnight packs with two
days worth of provisions. Day tripping from the Onion Valley
Campground was obviously a common practice.
We'll
be back
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